HALMAHERA

also called Djailolo, or Jailolo, largest island of the Moluccas, in Maluku Utara kabupaten (regency) of Maluku provinsi (province), Indonesia. The island consists of four peninsulas enclosing three great bays (teluk): Kau in the northeast, Buli in the east, and Weda in the southeast. Its area is 6,865 square miles (17,780 square km), and its name means motherland. An isthmus connects the northern peninsula with the others and forms a bay on the western side of the island; at the mouth of this bay are the islands of Ternate, from which it is administered, and Tidore. The four peninsulas are traversed in the direction of their longitudinal axes by heavily wooded mountain chains 3,000 to 5,000 feet (900 to 1,500 m) in height, often interrupted by plains. Parts of the chain of the northern peninsula are volcanic: three volcanoes are active, one of which, Mount Gamkonora, reaches 5,364 feet (1,635 m). There are numerous small rivers and several lakes, and near Weda is a grotto containing stalactites. The ancient indigenous population appears to have been Papuan. The inhabitants of the interior are tall and well built, with dark brown skin and blue-black wavy hair, worn long. They live mostly by hunting, fishing, and collecting sago starch. The coastal people include many elements from surrounding islands. They cultivate rice on temporary forest clearings and grow coconuts. Many lead a roving life of fishing, collecting forest produce, or hunting, often far beyond the home island. Headhunting once was common, particularly in the north. Islam and Christianity have made some conversions, but a kind of animismrelations with the spirits of the deadstill molds the thoughts and actions of the living. The native languages in the island's southern part belong to the Austronesian (Malayo-Polynesian) group, with linguistic affinities to western New Guinea; the languages of the north, including Ternate, Tidore, and Morotai, are unrelated to any other linguistic stock. The traditional house in northern Halmahera is octagonal, and villages consist of one-family houses grouped around a square, in the middle of which is a temple. The chief towns are Gani in the south; Pantani in the southeast; Weda in the centre; and Kau, Tobelo, Galela, Laloda, Sahu, and Jailolo on the northern peninsula. The Portuguese and Spaniards were well acquainted with Halmahera, calling it alternately Batu Tjina and Moro. The name Djailolo was that of a native state on the western coast of the island whose sultan held chief rank among the Moluccan princes before he was supplanted (1380) by the Sultan of Ternate. The Dutch obtained a footing in Halmahera with the aid of the latter, and he held claim to the northern half of the island, with the southern half under the sultan of Tidore for as long as the Dutch controlled the Indies. After World War II, Halmahera was part of the state of East Indonesia, and it was incorporated into the Republic of Indonesia after independence was granted by the Dutch in 1949. Pop. (1980) 93,895.