TIMBUKTU

also spelled Tombouctou, rgion, northern Mali, West Africa, bordering Mauritania on the northwest, Algeria on the northeast, and the rgions of Gao on the east, and Mopti and Sgou on the south. Timbuktu rgion was created in 1977 from the western part of Gao rgion. It is entirely within the Sahara (desert) except for the extreme southern area along the Niger River, and consists of relatively flat sandy or stony plains with elevations of about 1,000 ft (300 m). Salt is mined in the north at Taoudenni and is transported by camel caravan south to the town of Timbuktu, the rgion capital. The principal irrigated crops grown in the Niger River Valley are corn (maize) and rice. Population groups in the rgion include the nomadic Tuaregs and Moors in the Sahara and Songhai and Fulani peoples in the irrigated valley. Pop. (1976) 487,278. French Tombouctou, city in the West African nation of Mali, historically important as a trading post on the trans-Saharan caravan route and as a centre of Islamic culture (c. 14001600). Located on the southern edge of the Sahara, about 8 miles (13 km) north of the Niger River, the city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988. Timbuktu was founded about AD 1100 as a seasonal camp by Tuareg nomads. There are several stories concerning the derivation of the city's name. According to one tradition, Timbuktu was named for an old woman left to oversee the camp while the Tuareg roamed the Sahara. Her name (variously given as Tomboutou, Timbuktu, or Buctoo) meant mother with a large navel, possibly describing an umbilical hernia or other such physical malady. Timbuktu's location at the meeting point of desert and water made it an ideal trading centre. In the late 13th or early 14th century it was incorporated into the Mali empire. By the 14th century it was a flourishing centre for the trans-Saharan gold-salt trade, and it grew as a centre of Islamic culture. Three of West Africa's oldest mosquesDjinguereber (Djingareyber), Sankore, and Sidi Yahiawere built there during the 14th and early 15th centuries. After an extravagant pilgrimage to Mecca in 1324, the Mali emperor Mansa Musa built the Great Mosque (Djinguereber) and a royal residence, the Madugu (the former has since been rebuilt many times, and of the latter no trace remains). The Granada architect Abu Ishaq as-Sahili was then commissioned to design the Sankore mosque, around which Sankore University was established. The mosque still stands today, probably because of as-Sahili's directive to incorporate a wooden framework into the mud walls of the building, thus facilitating annual repairs after the rainy season. The Tuareg regained control of the city in 1433, but they ruled from the desert. Although the Tuareg exacted sizable tributes and plundered periodically, trade and learning continued to flourish in Timbuktu. By 1450, its population increased to about 100,000. The city's scholars, many of whom had studied in Mecca or in Egypt, numbered some 25,000. In 1468 the city was conquered by the Songhai ruler Sonni 'Ali. He was generally ill-disposed to the city's Muslim scholars, but his successorthe first ruler of the new Askia dynasty, Muhammad I Askia of Songhai (reigned 14931528) used the scholarly elite as legal and moral counselors. During the Askia period (14931591) Timbuktu was at the height of its commercial and intellectual development. Merchants from Ghudamis (Ghadames; now in Libya), Augila (now Awjidah, Libya), and numerous other cities of North Africa gathered there to buy gold and slaves in exchange for the Saharan salt of Taghaza and for North African cloth and horses. After it was captured by Morocco in 1591, the city declined. Its scholars were ordered arrested in 1593 on suspicion of disaffection; some were killed during a resulting struggle, while others were exiled to Morocco. Perhaps worse still, the small Moroccan garrisons placed in command of the city offered inadequate protection, and Timbuktu was repeatedly attacked and conquered by the Bambara, Fulani, and Tuareg. European explorers reached Timbuktu in the early 19th century. The ill-fated Scottish explorer Gordon Laing was the first to arrive (1826), followed by the French explorer Ren-Auguste Cailli in 1828. Cailli, who had studied Islam and learned Arabic, reached Timbuktu disguised as an Arab. After two weeks he departed, becoming the first explorer to return to Europe with firsthand knowledge of the city (rumours of Timbuktu's wealth had reached Europe centuries before, owing to tales of Musa's 11th-century caravan to Mecca). In 1853 the German geographer Heinrich Barth reached the city during a five-year trek across Africa. He, too, survived the journey, later publishing a chronicle of his travels. Timbuktu was captured by the French in 1894. They partly restored the city from the desolate condition in which they found it, but no connecting railway or hard-surfaced road was built. In 1960 it became part of the newly independent Republic of Mali (see also Index: Bambara states). Timbuktu is now an administrative centre of Mali. Small salt caravans from Taoudenni still arrive, but large-scale trans-Saharan commerce no longer exists there. Although the city has a small airport, it is most commonly reached by camel or boat. Islamic learning survives among a handful of aging scholars, and a language institute (Lyce Franco-Arabe) teaches Arabic and French. In the late 1990s, restoration efforts were undertaken to preserve the city's three great mosques, which are threatened by sand encroachment and by general decay. Pop. (1976) 19,165; (1987) 31,962.