Peak, western Himalayas .
It is located in the Pakistani-administered portion of the Kashmir region. In 1895 the British climber Albert F. Mummery led the first expedition to the 26,660-ft (8,126-m) summit, but he died in the attempt. Severe weather and frequent avalanches caused the deaths of at least 30 other climbers before the Austrian Hermann Buhl reached the top in 1953.