ARDEN, ELIZABETH

born Dec. 31, 1884, Woodbridge, Ont., Can. died Oct. 18, 1966, New York, N.Y., U.S. original name Florence Nightingale Graham Canadian-born American businesswoman who developed a successful line of cosmetics and a chain of beauty salons and spas. Florence Graham briefly pursued nurse's training, worked as a secretary, and held various other jobs before moving from Canada to New York City about 1908. She became an assistant to a beauty specialist, Eleanor Adair, and in 1910 went into partnership with Elizabeth Hubbard in a beauty salon on Fifth Avenue, investing about $1,000 in the venture. The partnership split up, and Graham decided to continue under the corporate name of Elizabeth Arden. In 1914 she hired chemists to produce a fluffy face cream and an astringent lotion, the first products in a cosmetics line that eventually included some 300 items. A pioneer in the advertising of beauty aids, she stressed her products' acceptable ladylike qualities in an age when makeup and beauty aids were still thought of in many circles in connection with low women. In 1915 she began to market her cosmetics internationally, selling them wholesale to pharmacies and department stores. She opened a Paris salon in 1922, and in later years she operated salons across Europe and in South America and Australia as well. By the time of her death there were 100 Elizabeth Arden beauty salons throughout the world, offering hairdressing, facial treatments, exercise, steam baths, massage, manicures, pedicures, and many other luxury services. Arden also operated luxurious and exclusive Maine Chance beauty spas in Mount Vernon, Maine, and Scottsdale, Arizona. Arden was one of the nation's foremost racehorse owners as well; she operated stables near Lexington, Kentucky, from which came Jet Pilot, winner of the 1947 Kentucky Derby. She bolstered her own image of ageless beauty by successfully concealing her age, which was not divulged until her death.