HAT

any of various styles of head covering. Men wore hats in the form of caps or hoods in ancient times, but women favoured veils and wimples until the late Middle Ages. Hats have often served ceremonial functions, sometimes symbolizing the office or rank of the wearer. Homemade hats of vegetable fibres are associated with the ancient rural traditions of Europe and Anatolia. An early statue of Mercury shows his hat to be of finely plaited straw. Artisans of classical Athens and Rome usually wore conical caps with egg-shaped crowns made of felt. The material that protruded under the band evolved into a brim. In Rome this cap was a badge of the plebeian class; a slave being freed was presented with such a cap. Men of the upper classes usually went hatless except in bad weather or when hunting or traveling. The emperor Augustus, in his old age, set a new fashion by never going out without a hat. In Egypt, caps and simple kerchiefs were worn over the head and brow, falling in a drape to the shoulders. Wigs of human hair or sheep's wool were also worn as protection from the sun. Helmet caps were ornamented with symbols of rank: the asp for kingly power, the feather for sovereignty. In the early medieval era, city people wore hats usually made of cloth, such as the chaperon, a loose hood for both men and women. Throughout the Middle Ages, women of all classes wore head draperies hiding the hair and framing the face. In the 14th century beaver hats became fashionable in Flanders and later spread to France, England, and elsewhere. Samuel Pepys paid 4 5s. for one in 1641. Women's hats showed increasing elaboration. The hennin, or steeple headdress, was fashionable in France and Flanders between 1460 and 1480. Women also wore the turban and the so-called butterfly headdress of transparent gauze raised above the head by means of long pins. During the 16th century the hood became popular for women. In the 17th century, Europeans wore hats indoors as well as out. Two main types of hats predominated among gentlemen in the 17th and 18th centuries. One was a low-crowned hat with a broad brim that was turned up, or cocked, on three sides (the tricorne) or two sides (the bicorne). This type was favoured by aristocrats, cavaliers, and gallants. The other type was a stiff, high-crowned, round hat that was worn by Dutch burghers and by English and American Puritans, among others. European and American women in the 18th century sometimes wore the calash, a great bonnet that resembled the extension top of a calche, or French carriage, atop pompadour-style hairdos. About 1760 the silk top hat originated in Florence, appearing in England in 1810. This stiff, round hat with a cylindrical crown replaced the tricorne as the standard attire for gentlemen after the French Revolution. Soon other types of hats were adopted by the expanding middle classes. The bowler, named for the London hatter who invented it and known as a derby in the United States, was introduced in 1850. Cloth caps with visors became standard attire for workingmen and boys. During the last quarter of the century, the soft felt hat became popular in the United States. Styles originating in the 19th century became standardized for men in Western countries until the early 1960s, when fur and wool felts, cloth, and suede became popular in a variety of styles. In the countries of the East, colourful turbans have been the traditional headgear. In the tropics, helmets of pith protect their wearers from the sun. In eastern and southern Mediterranean countries, men wear the fez, a brimless, cone-shaped hat, usually of red felt with a flat crown and a long tassel. The fez was abolished as part of the Turkish national dress in 1925. The people of Asia have devised head coverings as simple as the Chinese coolie hat, a one-piece flattened cone, to such an elaborate and decorative headdress as the Japanese cap-shaped kammuri of black lacquered silk decorated with an upright streamer and imperial chrysanthemum crest. In India the Gandhi cap, the fez, and variously styled turbans are in general use. In Latin America and in the southwestern United States, the sombreroa high-crowned hat of felt or straw with a wide brim rolled up at the edgesis popular. The cowboy adaptation, usually fashioned of beaver felt to repel rain, is known as a 10-gallon hat.