IZMIR

historically Smyrna city in western Turkey. The nation's third largest city and one of its largest ports, it lies at the head of the sheltered Gulf of Izmir on the deeply indented coast of the Aegean Sea. The modern city, with spacious avenues and modern buildings built since 1924, stands mainly on the small delta plain of the Kizilullu (ancient Meles) River around the eastern end of the gulf and on the heights and ridges to the south. Karsiyaka (formerly Kordelia), which lies across the gulf, is nearly connected to Izmir proper by a growing chain of suburbs. Konak is the commercial centre of Izmir; the city's residential quarters are concentrated in Karantina and in Gzelyali to the southwest and in Esrefpasa, north of the bazaar. South of the commercial centre lies Kadifekale (Mount Pagus; 540 feet [165 metres]), on which the old citadel of Izmir was built. Alsancak to the north is the site of the recently enlarged harbour, whereas industry is concentrated in suburbs along the gulf to the northeast. Izmir is one of the oldest cities of the Mediterranean world and has been of almost continuous historical importance during the last 5,000 years. Excavations indicate settlement contemporary with that of the first city of Troy, dating from the 3rd millennium BC. Greek settlement is first clearly attested by the presence of pottery dating from about 1000 BC. According to the Greek historian Herodotus, the Greek city was founded by Aeolians but soon was seized by Ionians. From modest beginnings, it grew into a stately city in the 7th century, with massive fortifications and blocks of two-storied houses. Captured by Alyattes of Lydia about 600 BC, it ceased to exist as a city for about 300 years until it was refounded by either Alexander the Great or his lieutenants in the 4th century BC at a new site on and around Mount Pagus. It soon emerged as one of the principal cities of Asia Minor and was later the centre of a civil diocese in the Roman province of Asia, vying with Ephesus and Pergamum for the title first city of Asia. Roman emperors visited there, and it was celebrated for its wealth, beauty, library, school of medicine, and rhetorical tradition. The stream of Meles is associated in local tradition with Homer, who is reputed to have been born by its banks. Smyrna was one of the early seats of Christianity. Capital of the naval theme (province) of Samos under the Byzantine emperors, Smyrna was taken by the Turkmen Aydin principality in the early 14th century AD. After being conquered in turn by the crusaders sponsored by Pope Clement VI and the Central Asian conqueror Timur (Tamerlane), it was annexed to the Ottoman Empire about 1425. Although severely damaged by earthquakes in 1688 and 1778, it remained a prosperous Ottoman port with a large European population. Izmir was occupied by Greek forces in May 1919 and recaptured by Turkish forces under Mustafa Kemal (later Kemal Atatrk) on September 9, 1922. The particular troops most responsiblebe they Greek or Turkishfor the murder and mayhem that marked these events is open for debate, but the fact remains that Izmir was ravaged by fierce fighting. Izmir was then devastated further when a massive fire broke out three days after the Turks had recaptured the city. Since World War II, Izmir has grown rapidly, partly owing to its location, for which it was selected as the site of the headquarters of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization's command for land forces in southeastern Europe. It also has a teacher-training school and the Aegean University, founded in 1955. Second only to the Istanbul region in industry, it produces foods, cement, and cotton and woolen textiles and has petrochemical and engineering works. A large international trade fair is held annually. Exports include agricultural products from its hinterlandchiefly tobacco, figs, cotton, and vegetablesas well as manufactures, carpets, and silk. The city's landmarks include the partly excavated remains of its agora and the ancient aqueducts of Kizilullu. The archaeological museum has a fine collection of local antiquities. Situated near such famous ancient sites as Ephesus and Pergamum and numerous holiday resorts, Izmir has a growing tourist trade. Izmir is located in one of Turkey's most densely populated areas. The coastal region includes the irrigated and fertile valleys and delta plains of the Kk (small) Menderes and Gediz rivers. Pop. (1995 est.) 2,017,699.