GRANDE CUISINE

the classic cuisine of France as it evolved from its beginnings in the 16th century to its fullest flowering in the lavish banquets of the 19th century. The classic cuisine prizes richness, suavity, balance, and elegant presentation. Unlike a peasant or bourgeois cuisine, in which bold, earthy tastes and textures are allowable and even desirable, grande cuisine aims at a mellow harmony and an appearance of artfulness and order. France's fertile pasturelands, dairies, vineyards, and farmlands, and a wealth of seacoast on both the Atlantic and Mediterranean, placed at the disposal of its chefs unsurpassed raw materials. Sophisticated cookery, however, arrived only with Catherine de Mdicis in 1533. She brought from Italy a taste for delicacies such as truffles, sweetbreads, and artichokes and, more importantly, for refined dishes such as aspics, quenelles, and custards; in these dishes there are no heavy sauces or spicings to disguise a lack of skill in preparation. With this refinement came advancements in table etiquette and appointments. The history of French cuisine henceforth is the development of this aesthetic: to procure the finest ingredients, to bring out all the nuances of flavour in subtle combination, and to serve the dishes with meticulous attention to symmetry and colour. The greatest of French chefs-Franois Pierre de la Varenne in the 17th century, Marie-Antoine Carme in the late 18th, and Auguste Escoffier in the 19th-advanced the systematization of French cuisine by their writings and through the legions of chefs they trained. In developing new dishes they accumulated a body of knowledge about the nature of raw materials. Through such experimentation, the master techniques for the preparation of stocks and sauces developed. To each of these were added variations and subdivisions of variations to the extent that, for example, an espagnole (brown) sauce could be endlessly varied by the addition of suitable herbs, vegetables, and flavourings. The properties of meats, fishes, eggs, butter, flour, sugar, and other staples were thoroughly explored; results could be anticipated by duplicating controlled conditions of heat, moisture, and proportion. Methods of braising, roasting, sauting, and so on were formalized and adjusted for the specific requirements of various meats, fishes, and vegetables. By a mutual understanding of technique, chefs could communicate recipes in a kind of shorthand and build on each other's experience. The grande cuisine is often associated with an overblown and overformal court cuisine and with a Victorian opulence devoted to excess. While there is some truth in this picture, modern French cuisine has been much lightened and simplified.