TRUFFLE

edible, subterranean fungus prized as a food delicacy from classical times. Truffles are in the genus Tuber, order Tuberales, of the class Ascomycetes (division Mycota). They are native mainly to temperate regions. The different species range in size from that of a pea to that of an orange. A section of a young specimen shows a whitish homogeneous flesh that with age becomes a rich dark colour showing a lighter marbling. Truffles flourish in open woodland on calcareous soil. They are saprophytes, usually associated with the roots of trees, possibly in a mutually beneficial association (see mycorrhiza). The spores of Tuber are large; from one to four may be seen in a spore sac, or ascus. (These, the first ascospores to be observed, were described by the French botanist Joseph Pitton de Tournefort in 170111.) The most valued truffle in French cookery is the Prigord (T. melanosporum), which is said to have first gained favour toward the end of the 15th century. It is brown or black, rounded, and covered with polygonal warts having a depression at their summit; the flesh (gleba) is first white, then brown or gray, and when mature becomes black with white veins having a brown margin. The odour is well marked and pleasant. The main French truffires (truffle grounds) are in Prigord and the dpartement of Vaucluse, though truffles are gathered throughout a large part of France. The truffle industry is an important one in France, and about one-third of the gatherings are exported. The French government undertook the reforesting of many large and barren areas, for many of the best truffle regions become productive by the planting of trees, particularly oaks. Because truffles often occur at depths of up to about 30 centimetres (12 inches), it is difficult to detect them unaided. Truffles, when occurring near the surface of the ground, crack it as they reach full size, and experienced gatherers can detect them. Furthermore, in the morning and evening columns of small yellow flies may be seen hovering over a colony. Occasionally an individual is sufficiently sensitive to the scent of truffles to locate them, but truffle hunting is usually carried on with the aid of trained pigs and dogs. Although truffles are much desired as food, direct cultivation of truffles for commerce is difficult. Calcareous ground is dug over and acorns or seedlings planted. Soil from truffle areas is usually spread about, and the ground is kept in condition by light plowing and harrowing. After three years, clearings are made and the trees pruned. If they are to appear, truffles do so only after about 5 years; gathering begins then, but is not very profitable until 8 or 10 years have passed. The yield is at its maximum from 5 to 25 years later. The English truffle, T. aestivum, is found principally in beech woods. It is bluish black, rounded, and covered with coarse polygonal warts; the gleba is white when immature, then yellowish, and finally brown with white branched markings. Truffles are rare in North America, being found most often in Oregon and California. False truffles (Rhizopogon), form small, underground, potato-like structures under coniferous trees, in parts of North America.