CALIFORNIA, GULF OF

also called Sea of Corts, Spanish Golfo de California, or Mar de Corts, large inlet of the eastern Pacific Ocean along the northwestern coast of Mexico. It is enclosed on the west by the mountainous peninsula of Baja California and on the east by the Mexican mainland. There are two schools of thought as to the origin of the gulf. One holds that it is structurally a part of the Pacific; the second, that Baja California is slowly pulling away from the continent as it moves north along the great San Andreas Fault system. Over the last 100 million years the peninsula's movement has probably totaled 300 miles (480 km). There also may have been some vertical movement forcing the peninsula upward and the gulf downward. The gulf is about 750 miles (1,200 km) long and an average of 95 miles (153 km) wide (about 200 miles at its mouth). The gulf has a total surface area of 62,000 square miles (160,000 square km). It is divided into two sections separated by a narrowing marked by the large islands of Angel de la Guarda and Tiburn. The northern portion is shallow, seldom exceeding 600 feet (180 m) in depth. In the south are several depressions, the deepest of them reaching to more than 10,000 feet (3,050 m). A powerful tidal bore rushing between the two creates the treacherous Salsipuedes Basin, long an obstacle to navigation. The gulf receives the Colorado River through a large delta at its head and the Fuerte, Mayo, Sinaloa, Sonora, and Yaqui rivers across a wide coastal plain from the east. Ports along its shores include La Paz, on Baja California peninsula, and Guaymas, on the mainland Mexican coast. The gulf has some of Mexico's richest commercial fishing grounds, with shrimp, tuna, and sardines among the leading species caught. Many small ports along the gulf have sport-fishing fleets that are dependent on game fish. Some pearling is done along the southwest coast. An expedition commanded by Nuez de Guzmn and dispatched by the Spanish conquistador Hernn Corts reached the gulf in 1532 but did not realize that it was a gulf. Three years later Corts himself led a second party across the gulf to the Baja peninsula beyond. It was not proved that Baja California was not an island until 1539 with the voyage of Francisco de Ulloa. It was he who named the gulf Mar Bermejo (Vermilion Sea) because of the impressive red plankton that is found in its waters. History Exploration Modern California derives from the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill in 1848, just nine days before Mexico signed the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, ceding to the United States a vast area of the Southwest that included all of present-day California. The region was neglected by the Europeans for more than three centuries after its first sighting in 1542 by the Spanish navigator Juan Rodrguez Cabrillo. The merchant Sebastin Vizcano sailed the southern California coast in 1602, naming San Diego, Santa Catalina Island, Santa Barbara, and Monterey Bay. Despite these early explorations, California was left to its Indian populationestimated at 130,000 when Spanish explorers reached California in 1542. Settlement Pressure for settlement came from missionaries eager to convert the Indians and from the intrusion of Russian and British traders, primarily in search of sea otter pelts. In 1769 the Spanish viceroy dispatched land and sea expeditions from Baja California, and the Franciscan friar Junpero Serra established the first mission at San Diego. Gaspar de Portol set up a military outpost in 1770 at Monterey. Colonization began after 1773 with the opening of an overland supply route across the southwestern deserts. The 21 missions established by Serra and his successors were the strongest factors in developing California. While attempting to Christianize the Indians, the padres taught them farming and crafts. With the labour of the Indians, the padres irrigated vast ranches and traded hides, tallow, wine, brandy, olive oil, grain, and leatherwork for the manufactured goods brought by Yankee trading vessels around Cape Horn.