KRAKW

also spelled Cracow, city and miasto-wojewdztwo (city province) surrounded by Krakw wojewdztwo (province), southern Poland, on both sides of the upper Vistula River. The third largest city in Poland, it is known primarily for its grand historic architecture and cultural leadership; UNESCO designated its old town area a World Heritage site in 1978. Its marketplace, Rynek Glwny (Main Square), has existed since the 13th century, and a modern landscaped area is laid out on the site of past fortifications. Krakw was the home of the Wislanie tribe (Vistulans), who occupied Malopolska (Little Poland) until the 10th century. From 988 to 990 Mieszko I, prince of Poland, united the southern and northern territories to form a powerful kingdom, and his son, Boleslaw I the Brave, later made Krakw the seat of a Polish bishopric. The city expanded rapidly as a trade centre, becoming capital of one of Poland's major principalities in 1138. It was devastated by Tatar invasions during the 13th century but was quickly rebuilt, receiving Magdeburg rights, which consisted of a municipal constitution, in 1257. When King Wladyslaw I the Short reunited Poland, he made Krakw his capital in 1320, after which the kings of Poland were traditionally crowned in Wawel Castle and entombed in Wawel Cathedral. Throughout the 14th century Krakw served as Poland's economic and political centre and as a major trading point between England and Hungary. Concurrently, it grew into the nation's intellectual and cultural locus, as evidenced by one of its main surviving medieval structures, the Jagiellonian University. Founded as the Academy of Krakw by Casimir III the Great in 1364, the university grew prestigious throughout the centuries, drawing scientists, artists, and scholars from across the continent; it is the second oldest university in central Europe. By 1600 Krakw had begun to decline. The Jagiellon dynasty came to an end, and by 1611 King Sigismund III Vasa moved his capital from Krakw to Warsaw, thus reducing Krakw's importance. The devastating Swedish wars of the 17th century left the city economically impoverished. In 1794 Tadeusz Kosciuszko led an anti-Russian insurrection that started in Krakw. Between 1795 and 1918 the city was controlled by Austria, except from 1809 to 1815, when it existed as part of the Duchy of Warsaw, and from 1815 to 1846, when, with its surrounding territory, it formed an independent republic. During the latter half of the 19th century the city redeveloped under relaxed Austrian control, until it regained its former stature. In 1918 Krakw was returned to Poland, only to be taken by the Germans at the beginning of World War II. The German governor, who made his headquarters in Wawel Castle, executed the university's teaching staff and sent some 55,000 Jews from the city to the Auschwitz II (Birkenau) death camp. In 1945 Krakw was liberated by rapidly advancing Soviet forces, and it suffered far less damage than other cities in the region. After the war, the Soviet-backed Polish government rebuilt Krakw's industry, which includes textile milling and chemical works, based on nearby salt and limestone deposits; there is also food processing and stone cutting. The creation of the giant Nowa Huta steelworks at Mogila (formerly located to the east, now part of the city's province) sealed Krakw's transformation from a university city to an industrial centre. The city's factory workers played a role in Poland's labour movement of the 1980s, and the economic strength of its heavy industry helped Krakw weather the country's economic turbulence after the fall of the communist regime. However, the massive refineries and manufacturing facilities have turned the area into one of the most polluted in Europe, threatening public health and the city's architectural treasures. Thousands of historic buildings and sites dot the city. Most prominent are the many churches, including St. Mary's Church (Koscil Mariacki), whose main section dates from 1497. It contains a stained-glass window from 1370 and a magnificent altar (147789) by Veit Stoss. Wawel Cathedral houses several ornate chapels and burial chambers, along with a collection of ecclesiastical art. Originally constructed in the early 11th century, the cathedral was rebuilt in 1142 and 1364, and it was renovated in 1712 in its current Gothic style. Two defensive fortifications remain from medieval times, a legacy of the city's perpetual struggle against invaders. The Barbican, a circular bastion with 10-foot- (3-metre-) thick brick walls, was built in the 15th century adjacent to the other remaining structure, the 13th-century Florian Gate. The city's Jewish quarter contains Remu'h Cemetery, which includes numerous well-preserved tombstones from the 16th century. Apart from the many remnants of its past, Krakw has managed to retain its place as a cultural centre through its museums, theatres, and opera house. Just outside the city lies the Wieliczka salt mine, operational for at least 700 years. Its 190 miles (300 km) of underground tunnels now contain a functioning sanatorium, a museum, and several chapels. UNESCO added the mine to the World Heritage List in 1978. The Krakw urban-industrial agglomeration includes the nearby industrial towns of Skawina, Wieliczka, and Niepolomice. Krakw is a major rail junction, with connections to the other cities of central and eastern Europe. Pop. (1996 est.) 745,400.