BORDEAUX WINE

also called claret any of numerous wines of the region surrounding the city of Bordeaux, France. Bordeaux has a long history in wine culture; like Burgundy and the Rhine region, it was known in Roman times. During the English occupation of Bordeaux, a charter was granted, first by Richard I and second by John in 1199, to the still-functioning jurade, a controlling body dating originally from the 12th century, which in its ceremonies still observes its medieval ritual and uses its traditional robes of the St. Emilion district for the supervision of wine making. Claret meant in those days a pale wine made by mixing reds and whites; the word claret is not used in modern French. The modern Bordeaux region is one of the world's most important regions making fine wines. It is divided by the Bordeaux wine classification into 36 districts, which in turn are divided into communes. Within these communes, again, are certain individual vineyards, called chteaux in this region, that produce the finest wines. The chteaux bottle their own wine and label it under their names, thus guaranteeing that it is not a blend. The chteau-bottled wines rated best are classified as crus classs, which in turn have five categories called growths. These five growths are not altogether based on excellence, which in fine wines remains always a matter of taste to some degree; other criteria, such as market price, exportation, and fame also formed these ratings. Rated in 1855, this classification is also outdated; nevertheless it has held up well over the years apart from excluding the possibility of improvement after 1855. After these crus classs are crus exceptionnels, comprising a half dozen wines, and several hundred wines named crus bourgeois and crus artisans, or paysans. The last two categories are largely obsolete owing to the growth of cooperative wineries, which have enabled small proprietors to use up-to-date wineries managed by expert vintners, thus raising the quality of less-expensive wine in Bordeaux and elsewhere. Although strict labeling is in force in Bordeaux chteau-bottled wines, inferior wines are still sold as Bordeaux. Further, because a poor year produces wine of inferior quality, such wines must be known by vintage as well. Wines of the Bordeaux region are labeled Bordeaux. Wines from specific districts of Bordeaux are usually of specific type and have more interest; they are labeled with the district name, as Mdoc or St. Emilion. Within the districts are communes, of specific wine type and of superior character; these are labeled with the name of the commune, St. Julien or St. Estphe. Of the 17 districts in Bordeaux, Mdoc, Graves, St. Emilion, and Pomerol are best known. Mdoc, Sauternes, and Barsac were classified in 1855, Graves in 1953, and St. Emilion in 1955.