CREWEL WORK

type of free-style embroidery distinguished not by the stitches employed but by the two-ply worsted wool yarn called crewel used for embroidering the design on a twill foundation (i.e., linen warp and cotton weft) or sometimes on pure linen or cotton cloth. The initial fashion for crewel work dates from the 16th and, especially, the 17th centuries and was largely centred in England and its American colonies. Undoubtedly the Elizabethan and Jacobean vogue of using embroidered fabrics as hangings and furniture coverings accounts in part for the flourishing of crewel work at that time. Crewel work designs were inspired by source books of ornaments or embroidery pattern books that had been published in Europe since the 16th century. Palampores, hand-painted (stenciled) cotton fabrics imported during the 17th century to England from India, were clearly influential in developing such traditional crewel work designs as the tree of life pattern. Embroidered Chinese fabrics that came to England from Portugal were another source of design motifs.