BRASS-AND-FERNS

Of or pertaining to a tavern or eatery which, through changes in management, decor, or menu, has attracted a decidedly more upscale clientele--but at the cost of its former charm, warmth, and ambience. Example: I leave town for six months, come back and find I can't get a decent slice anymore. Pug's Pizza is now Chez Pierre, and there's a line around the block with a velvet rope. I never thought THEY'd go all brass-and-ferns on me.